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bob cut
A bob cut or bob is a short haircut for women (and occasionally men) in which the hair is typically cut straight around the head at about jaw-level, often with a fringe (or "bangs") at the front.
==History==
Historically, women in the west have usually worn their hair long. Although young girls, actresses and a few "advanced" or fashionable women had worn short hair even before World War I〔English author Molly Hughes refers to having "close-cropped hair" while employed as a teacher at a Kensington girls' school in 1890: M. V. Hughes, ''A London Home in the Nineties''(1946), O.U.P.〕〔In The Adventure of the Copper Beeches by Arthur Conan Doyle(1892), a young governess is asked to have her luxuriant hair cut short as a condition of employment. Although reluctant to comply she does not see the request as unthinkable, commenting "Many people are improved by wearing it short, and perhaps I should be among the number."〕〔"The Outbreak in St. Petersburg", ''The Times'', Tuesday, January 31, 1905; pg. 3; Issue 37618; col E. A Russian noblewoman describes being caught amidst rioters in the streets after a general is killed: "I got right into the middle of a crowd of hooligans, who shrieked 'Hurrah!' The men were almost on top of me, and I ... shrieked 'Hurrah' myself, with my eyes dropping out of my head with terror. No doubt, owing to my short hair, they took me for a student girl, and some of the roughs smiled on me encouragingly."〕〔The Times, Friday, Jul 28, 1911; pg. 8; Issue 39649; col A. A writer covering events at The Universal Races Congress, a multiracial event held in London, remarked on the offbeat appearance of the British delegates: "Whether the representatives of other countries are on the whole normal or abnormal I cannot say; but it is plain that the Anglo-Saxons here are not representatives of the man in the street ... There are men with long hair, women with short hair ..."〕—for example in 1910 the French actress Polaire is described as having "a shock of short, dark hair",〔''The Times'', Tuesday, Mar 08, 1910; pg. 12〕 a cut she adopted in the early 1890s〔See http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Brooklyn_Museum_-_Polaire_from_La_Rire_-_Henri_de_Toulouse-Lautrec.jpg〕—the style was not considered generally respectable〔In a 1906 American short story a woman desperate for cash is obliged to cut her hair in order to sell it. She fears her husband's reaction, however, believing he will consider the crop hairstyle makes her look vulgar: "If Jim doesn't kill me," she said to herself, "before he takes a second look at me, he'll say I look like a Coney Island chorus girl." (O.Henry, ''The Gift of the Magi'',1906)〕 until given impetus by the inconvenience of long hair to girls engaged in war work.〔The Times, Tuesday, Nov 21, 1916; pg. 15; Issue 41330; col G An Englishwoman driving ambulances in Romania wrote: "We have discarded skirts and live in riding breeches, blouse, tunic, boots, and putties''(sic)''; no hat and short hair is so comfortable."〕〔The Times, Monday, Aug 05, 1918; pg. 10; Issue 41860; col E Article headed 'The Girl On The Farm':"The "bobbed" hair of many of the land girls and their smocks answer this description.".〕 English society beauty Lady Diana Cooper, who had had bobbed hair as a child,〔see Portrait of Lady Diana Manners, c. 1900 http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Portrait_of_Lady_Diana_Manners.jpg〕 kept the style through her teenage years〔see portrait, 1906 http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Manners_-_Diana_Cooper,_Viscountess_Norwich.jpg〕 and continued in 1914 as an adult.〔Portrait of Lady Diana Manners, 1914 http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:John_Singer_Sargent_-_Lady_Diana_Manners.jpg〕 Renowned dancer and fashion trendsetter Irene Castle introduced her "Castle bob" to a receptive American audience in 1915, and by 1920 the style was rapidly becoming fashionable.〔(''New York Times'', 27 June, 1920: ‘Vogue of bobbed hair’ )〕 Popularized by film stars Colleen Moore and Louise Brooks in the early 1920s, it was still seen as a somewhat shocking statement of independence in young women, as older people were used to seeing girls wearing long dresses and heavy Edwardian-style hair. Hairdressers, whose training was mainly in arranging and curling long hair, were slow to realise that short styles for women had arrived to stay, and so barbers in many cities found lines of women outside their shops, waiting to be shorn of hair that had taken many years to grow.〔http://www.sc.edu/fitzgerald/bernice/ Original illustration to FITZGERALD, F. S.:'Bernice Bobs Her Hair', ''Saturday Evening Post'' 1 May 1920〕〔In 1921 ''New York Times'' reported women hairdressers in Connecticut wishing to bob hair would have to obtain a barber's licence: ''New York Times'', August 23, 1921〕
Although as early as 1922 the fashion correspondent of ''The Times'' was suggesting that bobbed hair was passé,〔"Bobbed hair has been immensely popular during the last few years; it is now rapidly falling out of favour because it has become common."—The Times, Thursday, May 04, 1922; pg. 11; Issue 43622; col E : The Woman's View. Fashions In Hairdressing.〕 by the mid-1920s the style (in various versions, often worn with a side-parting, curled or waved, and with the hair at the nape of the neck "shingled" short), was the dominant female hairstyle in the Western world. The style was spreading even beyond the West, as women who rejected traditional roles adopted the bob cut as a sign of modernity.〔In 1928 when an unsuccessful Communist coup in Canton was put down, women with short hair were targeted for reprisals: 'Many women with bobbed hair were shot. The young Communists all bob their hair; and in many cases that was accepted as ''prima-facie'' evidence of guilt.' 〕 Close-fitting cloche hats had also become very popular, and couldn't be worn with long hair. Well-known bob-wearers were actresses Clara Bow and Joan Crawford, as well as Dutch film star Truus van Aalten.
As the 1930s approached, women started to grow their hair longer, and the sharp lines of the bob were abandoned.〔A critic reviewing a collection of society portraits for ''The Times'' notes: "Hairdressing is in a state of transition. There is an Eton crop, there are many soft shingles, and there are a few heads where the hair is being let grow." ''The Times'', Wednesday, May 14, 1930; pg. 19; Issue 45512; col F〕
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